Explanation Bing carburetor Puch Maxi

Application Puch Maxi Bing carburetor:

This explanation is about the different Bing carburettors for the Puch maxi. Originally, the Puch maxi moped (25km/h) was delivered with a 10-millimetre Bing carburettor. This carburettor is no longer produced new. The moped Puch maxi (45km/h) was originally delivered with a 12-millimetre Bing carburettor. Some Puch maxi models were originally delivered with a 14 millimetre Bing carburettor. These models were mainly delivered outside europe.

The 15 millimetre Bing carburettor was not originally supplied on the Puch maxi but is similar in appearance to the 10 or 12 millimetre Bing. Of course, the diameter is larger. The 15 millimetre Bing is often used for more power, and is also a good combination with a 70cc cylinder.

Parts Puch Maxi Bing carburetor:

The Bing carburettor consists of many different parts. It is very important that the parts of the carburettor are in good condition, clean and complete. This is necessary to ensure proper functioning of the carburettor. It is also important that certain parts belong together, including the throttle needle and nozzle tube.

If a carburettor has too much wear and tear, it affects the performance of the engine. It is wise to overhaul an original carburettor with an overhaul kit. If in doubt whether the condition of the old carburettor is too bad, the carburettor can also be replaced for a new one. When overhauling an old carburettor, also pay close attention to the manifold connection. Over time, cracks can appear here if the carburettor is often unscrewed and re-tightened. 

When rebuilding the carburetor, it is of course important that the parts are in the right place , schematic drawing is shown below:

• Number 13 in the drawing indicates the nozzle tube. This nozzle tube comes in different sizes. This has to do with the gas needle that goes into the nozzle tube. Originally, different gas needle sizes were supplied. The fit of the gas needle in the nozzle tube must match. When replacing the original nozzle tube, it is therefore wise to first take the size of the old one ( this is engraved on it ). The nozzle tube included in the Bing repair kit is a 212, it matches the needle included in the kit.
  
• When a new needle is ordered from the web shop, it officially comes with a 212 nozzle tube. The new gas needles come in 1 size.
• Numbers 9 and 10 indicate the gas needle and gas needle clip. This clip can be clicked into 4 different slots. This makes the gas needle sit higher or lower in the throttle slide. With the position of the gas needle, we can control the fine adjustment of the petrol supply. The higher the gas needle is, the more petrol the moped gets. Number 8 is a small ring which lies on top of the gas needle clip. This ring ensures that the accelerator needle cannot shoot up, partly because the spring also rests on it.
  
• Number 17 indicates the float. As the float chamber visibly fills with petrol, the float should cut off the supply of petrol at some point. It is important that the float level is correct. If the float is too low, the petrol supply is cut off too quickly, with the result that the float chamber is not completely filled with petrol. If the float is too high, the petrol supply is not cut off and the carburettor will overflow, causing it to leak.
  
• Adjusting the float is as follows. Mount the float and push the float up. When the float is hanging horizontally, the petrol supply should be shut off. You can test this by blowing into the connection of the petrol hose. If the height is not right, bend the clip where the float is mounted until the height is correct.
• Number 14 indicates the main nozzle. We use this nozzle for the main adjustment of the moped. The larger the nozzle size, the more petrol the moped gets. With the throttle needle we can adjust the fine tuning, as described earlier. Of course, the nozzle size depends entirely on the set-up of the moped.
  
• Number 27 indicates the idle/air screw. You can use this screw to adjust the moped's idle. If you turn the screw further in, the throttle slide is pushed further up. This will increase the idle speed, the moped gets more petrol and more air. If you turn the screw further out, the opposite happens. The starting point is often that the idle screw is turned all the way in and 1.5 turns out. This is a good starting point for adjustment.